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Lo Manthang and the high desert plateau during the Upper Mustang trek.
Guided trek in Nepal

Upper Mustang Trek

Walk with us into the walled kingdom of Lo Manthang, through Nepal's Tibetan-Buddhist desert. Honest walk-or-ride tiers, restricted permits arranged.

Duration7-17
Max Altitude3,840m
DifficultyModerate
Distance155 km
Group SizeMax 8
Best SeasonSpring & Summer
01 / Route overview

Into the walled kingdom of Lo, on foot or by road

A restricted-area journey through Nepal's Tibetan-Buddhist desert to the walled city of Lo Manthang. We tell you plainly what you walk, what you ride, and what the permit really costs.

Updated 17 September 2026Route reviewed with Indra Bahadur Baram, Love Himalaya Journey guide.
Max altitude3,840 m at Lo Manthang; passes to 4,320 m on the circuit
Best seasonsSpring and autumn; viable in monsoon (rain-shadow)
Who it suitsTrekkers wanting culture and remoteness over high passes

Trip highlights

  • Enter the walled city of Lo Manthang, 3,840 m, capital of the former Kingdom of Lo
  • Walk a Tibetan-Buddhist desert of red cliffs, ancient sky caves and mud-brick villages
  • Cross the Kagbeni checkpost into country closed to independent trekkers
  • Visit centuries-old monasteries: Ghar Gompa, Chode and the cave gompa at Luri
  • Trek in the monsoon months too, when the rain shadow keeps the trail largely dry
  • Travel with a licensed guide who carries the permits and explains the culture
What to know before you book
01
What is physically hard

Not the altitude. Lo Manthang sits at a moderate 3,840 m, and the highest pass on the standard route is around 3,950 m. The hard part is distance, wind and dryness: long days across an exposed desert plateau with little shade and a strong afternoon wind. The Transformation circuit goes higher, up to around 4,320 m at Chogo La.

02
What you walk versus what you ride

A dirt road now runs all the way to Lo Manthang, and many trips sold as treks are really jeep tours. We keep the two apart. The Trail drives the whole route: fast and accessible, but with little acclimatisation. The Journey walks the classic trail in and out. The Transformation walks a full circuit. Day by day, we tell you what is driven and what is walked.

03
What the permit really is

Upper Mustang is a genuine restricted area. Since 2026 the permit costs 50 US dollars per person for each day inside the zone, replacing the old flat 500-dollar fee. Only a registered agency can obtain it, and a licensed guide is mandatory. We arrange the restricted-area permit, the conservation permit and the TIMS card, and show the cost as a clear line, not a surprise.

04
Where comfort is, and where it is not

Kagbeni and Lo Manthang have genuinely decent lodges, which is why we use them. The villages in between, Chele, Ghami and Charang, are basic for everyone, whatever the tier. Hot showers, charging and Wi-Fi are paid extras north of Kagbeni and unreliable. The Transformation upgrades our Lo Manthang nights; it cannot upgrade the country in between.

05
Who this trek is best for

People who want Tibetan-Buddhist culture, deep remoteness and a landscape unlike anywhere else in Nepal, more than a high pass. It rewards curiosity about monasteries, history and desert geology. If you are chasing altitude or lush mountain scenery, another trek will suit you better.

02 / Day by day

Your journey

Follow the trail from start to finish. Every day reveals a new part of the route.

The Trail drives to Lo Manthang and back by jeep, gaining altitude fast with little acclimatisation. The Journey, our recommended way, walks the classic trail in and out. The Transformation flies in and walks a full circuit, returning through the eastern sky-cave villages. Safety is identical across all three.

Day 01
Phewa Lake in Pokhara before the Upper Mustang trek.
Kathmandu to Pokhara
easyKathmandu hotelBreakfast

Kathmandu to Pokhara

Distance
200 km
Sleep
820 m
High
1,300 m

Transfer to Pokhara, the gateway to Mustang

Our journey west begins with the transfer from Kathmandu to Pokhara, a scenic drive along the Prithvi Highway or a short flight. Pokhara is the staging point for Mustang, low, warm and beside the lake, and today is deliberately easy. We settle in, you meet your guide, and together we go through the restricted-area paperwork. Because the permit is now charged per day inside the zone, we check it against the itinerary here, so there are no surprises at the Kagbeni checkpost.

AltitudeMeet your guide and confirm the permits
ContextAn easy day before the journey north
Day 02
By jeep to Lo ManthangKagbeni village at the gateway to Upper Mustang in Nepal.
Pokhara to Jomsom to Kagbeni
easyStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Pokhara to Jomsom to Kagbeni

On The Trail we continue by jeep beyond Kagbeni along the dirt road, reaching Lo Manthang in one long driving day instead of walking over several days, with a guided stop in Kagbeni's lanes on the way.
Distance
160 km
Walking
1 hrs
Sleep
2,810 m

The Kali Gandaki gorge between two 8,000 m peaks

An early start north into the Kali Gandaki, often called the deepest gorge on earth, between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs. On The Journey we travel by road to Jomsom, a long, rough, spectacular run as green hills give way to the dry, wind-shaped country of Mustang, then take a shorter leg on to Kagbeni. Kagbeni is a maze of mud-brick lanes and irrigation channels around a red ochre gompa dating to the thirteenth century. At the checkpost above the village our permits are checked for the first time. North of here the country is closed to independent trekkers, and tonight we sleep in Kagbeni before crossing into Lo.

CultureKagbeni's medieval lanes and 13th-century red gompa
ContextThe restricted-area checkpost, gateway to Lo
Day 03
Driven, not walkedDry canyon trail beyond Kagbeni on the Upper Mustang trek.
Kagbeni to Chele
moderateStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Kagbeni to Chele

Distance
13 km
Walking
6 hrs
Sleep
3,050 m

Crossing into the restricted area beyond Kagbeni

Our first day inside the restricted area. We leave Kagbeni and climb along the Kali Gandaki into the desert proper: eroded cliffs, wind, and the first Tibetan-Buddhist villages. The walking is moderate but exposed, and the wind builds through the afternoon, so we move steadily through the morning. We reach Chele, a small village above the river, by mid-afternoon. The land has changed completely from the green of two days ago, and it stays high desert all the way to Lo Manthang.

CultureThe first Tibetan-Buddhist desert villages
ContextEroded cliffs above the Kali Gandaki
Day 04
Driven, not walkedGeling village and dry ridges on the Upper Mustang trek.
Chele to Geling
moderateStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Chele to Geling

Distance
14 km
Walking
7 hrs
Sleep
3,570 m
High
3,800 m

Crossing Taklam La and Dajori La

A longer, higher day across the grain of the land. We cross a series of passes and ridgelines, Taklam La and Dajori La among them, with wind-carved valleys opening on either side, dipping and climbing between villages of chortens and prayer walls before reaching Geling, with its barley fields and old gompa. It is one of the harder days on the route, not for altitude but for the up-and-down and the exposure. We keep a measured pace and stop in the villages along the way, where your guide reads the landscape and its history with you.

SafetyAbove 3,500 m: follow the altitude protocol.
CultureChortens, prayer walls and hillside villages
CultureGeling's barley fields and old gompa
Day 05
Driven, not walkedGhami and Charang villages in the dry landscape of Upper Mustang.
Geling to Charang via Ghami
challengingStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Geling to Charang via Ghami

Distance
15 km
Walking
7 hrs
Sleep
3,560 m
High
3,950 m

Nyi La, the southern gateway to Lo

Today we cross the gateway into Lo. We climb to the route's standard high point, Nyi La, around 3,950 m, then descend to Ghami, one of the largest villages in the region, set against dramatic red cliffs, and pass one of the longest mani walls in Nepal on the way to Charang. Charang, or Tsarang, sits above its canyon with a five-storey white fort and a red gompa holding old manuscripts and statues. It is the last major village before Lo Manthang, and a fitting place to spend the night before the final approach.

SafetyAbove 3,500 m: follow the altitude protocol.
CultureGhami's red cliffs and a long mani wall
CultureCharang's white fort and red gompa
Day 06
Reached by jeepLo Manthang walled city on the Upper Mustang trek in Nepal.
Charang to Lo Manthang
moderateStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Charang to Lo Manthang

On The Trail we reach Lo Manthang by jeep on the road rather than walking the final approach, arriving with more time in the city but without the arrival on foot.
Distance
14 km
Walking
6 hrs
Sleep
3,840 m
High
4,230 m

First sight of the walled city of Lo Manthang

Today we reach the walled city. The trail climbs gently from Charang and crosses a last ridge, and then Lo Manthang appears below: a compact rectangle of white walls and packed houses on the open plateau, little changed in five centuries. We enter through the single gate and settle in. There is time in the afternoon to begin taking it in: the scale of the walls, the warren of lanes, the quiet. It is an arrival worth every step it took to reach.

SafetyAbove 3,500 m: follow the altitude protocol.
ContextEntering through the single city gate
ContextSettling into the former capital of Lo
Day 07
Lo Manthang and the high desert plateau during the Upper Mustang trek.
Lo Manthang exploration day
easyStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Lo Manthang exploration day

Distance
8 km
Walking
4 hrs
Sleep
3,840 m
High
4,000 m

Monasteries and the royal palace within the walls

A full day in and around the walled city, the cultural heart of the trek. Within the walls stand the great assembly halls and monasteries, Jampa, Thubchen and Chode, with their old murals and statues, and the former royal palace. Your guide opens the doors that matter and explains what we are looking at, in a place where the meaning is not obvious to an outsider. Beyond the walls, a half-day excursion reaches the cave complexes and cliff monasteries around the plateau, including the painted caves toward Chosar and the road north toward the Tibet border. The day also helps acclimatisation and gives a buffer between the long days behind and ahead.

ContextCave complexes and cliff monasteries around the plateau
SafetyA day of culture, history and acclimatisation
Day 08
Driven, not walkedHigh desert trail from Lo Manthang toward Ghami in Upper Mustang.
Lo Manthang to Ghami
moderateStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Lo Manthang to Ghami

Distance
16 km
Walking
7 hrs
Sleep
3,520 m
High
3,950 m

The southbound desert crossing

Today we turn south. On The Journey we retrace the high trail back toward Ghami, recrossing the ridgelines with the light and the wind from a new direction. The walking is familiar now, but the views are not: a southbound desert crossing reads differently from the climb in. This is where The Journey and The Transformation part ways. The Journey returns the way it came, the classic out-and-back; The Transformation turns east into the side valleys for a true circuit through the sky-cave country.

SafetyAbove 3,500 m: follow the altitude protocol.
AltitudeRecrossing the high ridgelines toward Ghami
ContextWhere The Journey and The Transformation part ways
Day 09
Driven, not walkedDry canyon landscape between Ghami and Chele in Upper Mustang.
Ghami to Chele
moderateStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Ghami to Chele

Distance
16 km
Walking
7 hrs
Sleep
3,050 m
High
3,800 m

The long descent through the lower restricted villages

A long descending day back through the villages of the lower restricted area. We retrace the climb in, but with legs and lungs now well adjusted: the passes feel lower, the distances shorter, and the desert villages are familiar faces on the way out. We reach Chele by late afternoon, our last night inside the restricted zone before the Kagbeni checkpost and the road south.

SafetyFamiliar passes, easier on adjusted legs
ContextOur last night inside the restricted zone
Day 10
By jeep to JomsomKali Gandaki riverbed on the route from Chele to Jomsom after Upper Mustang.
Chele to Jomsom
moderateStandard teahouseBreakfastLunchDinner

Chele to Jomsom

On The Trail we return to Jomsom by jeep along the road, closing the loop the way it began.
Distance
19 km
Walking
7 hrs
Sleep
2,720 m
High
3,050 m

Leaving the restricted area at the Kagbeni checkpost

Our last walking day. We drop back down to Kagbeni and out through the checkpost, the restricted area now behind us, then walk on to Jomsom along the wide Kali Gandaki riverbed, usually with the wind at our backs and the big peaks ahead the whole way. Jomsom, the windswept district centre, marks the end of the trail. There is time to rest, eat well and feel the journey come full circle before the transfer south tomorrow.

Safety7 hrs walking: keep the pace steady.
RouteThe wide Kali Gandaki riverbed walk to Jomsom
ContextThe big peaks ahead the whole way south
Day 11
Road from Jomsom through the Kali Gandaki valley toward Pokhara.
Jomsom to Pokhara
easyKathmandu hotelBreakfast

Jomsom to Pokhara

Distance
160 km
Sleep
820 m
High
2,720 m

The transfer south from Jomsom to Pokhara

Today we leave the mountains, by road down the Kali Gandaki or on the short morning flight to Pokhara. Either way the country reverses what we saw on the way in, desert back to green, wind back to warmth, and we are beside the lake by the afternoon. An easy evening in Pokhara, the first hot shower in days, and the sense of having come a long way from the walled city on the plateau.

ContextDesert giving way to green hills again
RouteAn easy evening by the lake
Day 12
Phewa Lake in Pokhara after returning from the Upper Mustang trek.
Pokhara to Kathmandu
easyKathmandu hotelBreakfast

Pokhara to Kathmandu

Distance
200 km
Sleep
1,300 m

The transfer back to Kathmandu

Today we travel back to Kathmandu, by road along the Prithvi Highway or on a short flight. It is a travel day, with an evening in the capital to begin to take in where we have just been.

ContextA travel day to close the journey
Day 13
Trail ends earlierKathmandu buffer day after the Upper Mustang trek.
Kathmandu buffer day
easyKathmandu hotelBreakfast

Buffer day

Sleep
1,300 m

A buffer against flight and road delays

A deliberate buffer day in Kathmandu. Mountain flights and the Mustang road both depend on the weather, and losing a day at either end is common; this day absorbs it without threatening your onward travel. If everything ran on time, it is a free day in the city for markets, monasteries or rest.

ContextA free day in Kathmandu if the schedule held
Day 14
Trail ends earlierKathmandu before departure after the Upper Mustang trek.
Kathmandu departure
easyBreakfast

Departure

Sleep
1,300 m

Airport transfer for onward travel

We take you to the airport, timed to your onward flight, and see you off at the end of our journey into Lo.

ContextThe end of our journey into Lo
03 / Trip essentials

What's included and excluded

Know exactly what your trek price covers before you commit.

Price Includes

  • Restricted-area permit, ACAP, and TIMS
  • Teahouse and lodge nights
  • Full board on trek
  • Licensed guide
  • Ground or air transfer
  • Porters and restricted-area logistics

Price Excludes

  • International flights
  • Nepal visa
  • Travel insurance
  • Flight to Jomsom (Trail and Journey)
  • Muktinath extension
  • Personal expenses
Optional extension

Add-on - Pair with sacred Muktinath

Kagbeni is also the gateway south to Muktinath, a temple holy to Hindus and Buddhists. Combine the restricted kingdom of Lo with the pilgrimage to Muktinath on one trip.

  • The Jomsom-Muktinath route through the lower Kali Gandaki valley
  • The 108 water spouts and eternal flame at Muktinath (3,800 m)
  • A combined itinerary and permits, arranged in advance
Add-on priced separately. Ask us to combine Upper Mustang with the Jomsom Muktinath route.

Muktinath sits on a side valley east of Kagbeni, in the opposite direction to Lo Manthang, so it is arranged as an extension rather than part of the core route. It needs no restricted-area permit and adds a few days.

See the Jomsom Muktinath Trek
04 / Price & discounts

Build your trek

Pick a tier, set your group size, and choose a preferred departure. The number you see here is the number we receive.

Same safety floor across all three. What changes is lodging, pace, privacy, and how much planning we absorb for you.

The more who trek, the less each person pays

Choose a group band to update your live quote below.

Swipe to compare group rates

Per-person prices for The Trail
Group sizePrice per personYou save per personSelect group size
$1,390Standard rate
$1,190$200 (14% off)
$1,050$340 (24% off)

Prices are in USD, per person. Your total updates automatically for 2 trekkers.

What's in The Trail

2 included · 1 not included

  • Restricted-area permit, ACAP, and TIMSAll three arranged through our agency before departure
  • All meals and teahouse lodging on tourBreakfast, lunch, and dinner throughout
  • Walking acclimatisationThe Trail gains altitude fast by jeep; choose the Journey to walk in
05 / Before you go

Frequently Asked Questions

As of 2026 the restricted-area permit costs 50 US dollars per person for each day you are inside the zone, which begins at Kagbeni. It replaced the old flat fee of 500 dollars for ten days, so shorter trips now cost less and you pay only for the days you use. On top of that you need the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit, around 25 to 30 dollars, and a TIMS card, around 20 dollars. We arrange all three. The restricted permit can only be issued through a registered agency, never to an individual.

Upper Mustang is a restricted area, and the rules require a licensed guide on every trip. A notice in early 2026 began allowing solo trekkers to hold a restricted-area permit with a guide, but enforcement is still settling and several requirements are in transition, so for now we run this trek with a minimum of two trekkers. If you are travelling alone and want to go, talk to us; we can often pair you with a departure. A guide is mandatory either way.

It can be either, and we tell you which. A dirt road now runs the length of the valley to Lo Manthang, so many trips sold as treks are really jeep tours. Our Trail tier is an honest jeep journey: fast and accessible, but you gain altitude quickly with little walking acclimatisation. The Journey walks the classic trail to Lo Manthang and back on foot. The Transformation walks a full circuit. Day by day, we tell you what is driven and what is walked.

The sleeping altitude is moderate: Lo Manthang sits at 3,840 m, and the highest pass on the standard route is around 3,950 m, lower than most major Nepal treks. The difficulty is distance, wind and dryness: long days across an exposed plateau with a strong afternoon wind. The Transformation circuit goes higher, up to around 4,320 m. With a measured pace and the rest day in Lo Manthang, most reasonably fit walkers manage The Journey comfortably.

Tiji is a three-day Tibetan-Buddhist festival in Lo Manthang, set by the monastery on the lunar calendar, usually in May. The strongest current indication for 2027 is 1 to 3 June, but the date is confirmed only a few months ahead, so treat it as provisional until then. The Transformation can be timed to Tiji as an optional departure. If the festival matters to you, tell us early so we can confirm dates and secure lodging, which is tight during Tiji.

Yes, and it is one of the region's genuine advantages. Upper Mustang sits in the rain shadow north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs, so it stays largely dry through June, July and August, when most of Nepal is under monsoon rain. The trade-off is that the approach through the lower valley can still see rain and the occasional flight delay, which is why we build a buffer day into the schedule.

It means the government controls who enters and how. North of the Kagbeni checkpost you must hold the restricted-area permit, which only a registered agency can obtain, and you must travel with a licensed guide. You cannot trek here independently. The rules exist for border security and cultural preservation: Upper Mustang borders Tibet and holds a living Tibetan-Buddhist culture the permit system is meant to protect. Overstaying or entering without a permit carries heavy penalties, so we keep the paperwork exact.

Yes, on request. Muktinath, the temple sacred to Hindus and Buddhists, sits on a side valley east of Kagbeni, the opposite direction to Lo Manthang, so it is not part of the core route. Because Kagbeni is the shared gateway, it is straightforward to add the Jomsom Muktinath route as an extension. It needs no restricted-area permit and adds a few days. Ask us and we will build a combined itinerary.

Quote$2,7802 trekkers